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  1. #1
    I would use HGW bearings rather than HGH, they offer more support.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    I would use HGW bearings rather than HGH, they offer more support.
    Got it, that is easy to change. Does this apply for the Z-axis as well?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by NordicCnc View Post
    Got it, that is easy to change. Does this apply for the Z-axis as well?
    Yes and no, Yes if you have room but I only use them on X & Y as it can make the Z a little wide.

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  5. #4
    You don't need or want 6 counterbored holes in the lower gantry just use the 3 furthest away from the gantry side and the center front one, you can miss the out the center bolt through the gantry side or put it in but with short threads. Reason being the bolts going through gantry side clash with bolts and it's more important you get good fastening into sides so longer bolts needed. Between them, the gantry is going now were trust me.!

    Also with the ball screw spacer plates pay careful attention to fastening bolts and that you can actually access them with BK bearing and screw in place because you'll need to adjust these on the machine when setting alignment etc.

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    You don't need or want 6 counterbored holes in the lower gantry just use the 3 furthest away from the gantry side and the center front one, you can miss the out the center bolt through the gantry side or put it in but with short threads. Reason being the bolts going through gantry side clash with bolts and it's more important you get good fastening into sides so longer bolts needed. Between them, the gantry is going now were trust me.!
    Good notice! I have corrected that now and I will use shorter threaded bolts for the center ones (red arrow).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Also with the ball screw spacer plates pay careful attention to fastening bolts and that you can actually access them with BK bearing and screw in place because you'll need to adjust these on the machine when setting alignment etc.
    Yes, I should be able to access those at anytime with current design.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have also replaced the guide carriages with the wider version, as you suggested.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for your feedback, I appreciate it!

  7. #6
    I just noticed the size of the pulley and I'm assuming it's to scale.? Try to keep the pulley size small as possible to keep inertia low but at the same time making sure you have enough teeth engaged so don't get jumping teeth or premature wear. If you must use a large pulley then try to use an aluminium one, again to keep inertia low.

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    I just noticed the size of the pulley and I'm assuming it's to scale.? Try to keep the pulley size small as possible to keep inertia low but at the same time making sure you have enough teeth engaged so don't get jumping teeth or premature wear. If you must use a large pulley then try to use an aluminium one, again to keep inertia low.
    Yes, the pulley sizes in the pictures are 20T and 40T. How many teeth need to be engaged at bare minimum? I have not yet found any supplier (I am trying to find those pulley's with taper lock) so for now during the design phase, I went with some sizes I could find on Ebay.

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