Project Beaver

[Neale]

Sorry - didn't mean to confuse but you said CSMIO first!

Yes, good choice of motion controller. Ignore the few posts talking about Mach3/CSMIO issues as you won't need to deal with these yet and we're not talking about show-stopper problems. NPN, N/C - yes, correct translation. The most important bit is N/C. If all the limit switches are wired with normally-closed switch contacts, then as soon as a switch opens, the machine stops. You might say that normally-open would do the same thing. The big safety-related difference is that if a wire comes loose, a soldered joint fails, you've forgotten to plug in the limit switches - with N/C connections then this looks like a limit switch has tripped and the machine stops/won't start. Bad connection with N/O switches and the first you know of it is when the gantry hits its end-stops and tries to keep going!

I agree that a box of the size that Clive suggests is about right. I used a 600x400x200 and although I could just fit everything in (by bolting lightweight power supplies to the inside of the door, for example) actually wiring the thing gets to be like keyhole surgery. A bit more space would help. I used an old PC case for my first machine, but that used a cheap, small, breakout board (the CSMIO needs rather more space) and I was using just 3 older analogue drivers which are a lot smaller than the newer digital drivers that I am using for Mk2. I was also able to use the PC power supply for 5V and 12V supplies but you are going to need 24V for the CSMIO.

Good luck - looks like you are going down the right path.

[OMLCNC]

Sorry - didn't mean to confuse but you said CSMIO first!

Yes, good choice of motion controller. Ignore the few posts talking about Mach3/CSMIO issues as you won't need to deal with these yet and we're not talking about show-stopper problems. NPN, N/C - yes, correct translation. The most important bit is N/C. If all the limit switches are wired with normally-closed switch contacts, then as soon as a switch opens, the machine stops. You might say that normally-open would do the same thing. The big safety-related difference is that if a wire comes loose, a soldered joint fails, you've forgotten to plug in the limit switches - with N/C connections then this looks like a limit switch has tripped and the machine stops/won't start. Bad connection with N/O switches and the first you know of it is when the gantry hits its end-stops and tries to keep going!

I agree that a box of the size that Clive suggests is about right. I used a 600x400x200 and although I could just fit everything in (by bolting lightweight power supplies to the inside of the door, for example) actually wiring the thing gets to be like keyhole surgery. A bit more space would help. I used an old PC case for my first machine, but that used a cheap, small, breakout board (the CSMIO needs rather more space) and I was using just 3 older analogue drivers which are a lot smaller than the newer digital drivers that I am using for Mk2. I was also able to use the PC power supply for 5V and 12V supplies but you are going to need 24V for the CSMIO.

Good luck - looks like you are going down the right path.

So do we think something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schneider-...oAAOSwaB5XowFy will do the job if I leave the VFD outside the box (Or in a different box, would dust be a problem to it?)
Also does it have to be metal? Or will plastic do? Is it preferable to put it on the wall near the machine or underneath the machine. I can do either.

[Clive S]

So do we think something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schneider-...oAAOSwaB5XowFy will do the job if I leave the VFD outside the box (Or in a different box, would dust be a problem to it?)
Also does it have to be metal? Or will plastic do? Is it preferable to put it on the wall near the machine or underneath the machine. I can do either.

Yes that would do and it does need to be metal you would also need to put a couple of fans in it as well. You can get 24V fans and run them from the 24v ps or if you have them you could use two 12v fans wired in series.

If you have the space mount it on the wall.

[OMLCNC]

So while I'm ordering things and waiting for them to turn up, I'm deciding on cap head screws, I have some phosphate (black) from previous jobs and some stainless steel. But reading Neil's build log he used BZP from here https://www.tool-net.co.uk/s-1211/ca...etric-bzp.html (Only on page 54 out of the 81 build log - more interesting than TV however)

Any thoughts, I seem to remember that Aluminium reacts with steel, or is it stainless steel over time, like a battery, white corrosion.

[JoeHarris]

So while I'm ordering things and waiting for them to turn up, I'm deciding on cap head screws, I have some phosphate (black) from previous jobs and some stainless steel. But reading Neil's build log he used BZP from here https://www.tool-net.co.uk/s-1211/ca...etric-bzp.html (Only on page 54 out of the 81 build log - more interesting than TV however)

Any thoughts, I seem to remember that Aluminium reacts with steel, or is it stainless steel over time, like a battery, white corrosion.

BZP is a good choice. Mild steel and stainless react


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OMLCNC]

Steel arrived today, all cut to size, so drilling and tapping first, then brackets, then welding.

[OMLCNC]

Progress today, trial assembly, finding the the workshop floor slopes about 30mm over the length of the machine so good job fitting levelling feet.
Cheeking and marking out the moving bed and brackets. Its going to move down by 100mm amounts. I can not think I would want to move it in lesser amounts than multiples of 100mm, unless you people out there no better? (Z axis should have about 220mm travel.)

Just ordered 1500 screws which sounds a lot but I've worked out I need 340 so far and given that they come in 100's or 200's multiplied by the size and length combinations you end up with 1500. I think I will still need more yet.