. .

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    bit of a thread hijack sorry.

    so when I got the machine it turned on and worked, but every time I started the spindle it tripped the RCD. I notice straight away the main fuse on the sprint drive card had been bridged, so assuming it was a known problem.

    after many hours of faffing I took the top cover off the sem motor and it was filled with burnt carbon from the brushes. after a really really good clean and hoover, it worked and didn't trip the rcd.

    I also replaced the brushes in the side of the sem motor just for piece of mind.

    a problem since I had the machine is you start the spindle at say 3000rpm and it starts to jump around going up and down, by like 300-400rpm. so sent it away for a £500 refurb and it hasn't fixed the problem just changed the problem. now days when I set the motor to 3200rpm, it will go to that speed then after about 10 seconds jumps to 3800 where it will just sit until turned off. its not a big deal I have live spindle feed back so I can account for it, but it shouldn't be doing it.

    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    Space is certainly a challenge with triac spindles.

    Andy, what is wrong with your spindle motor/drive?
    Mine started hesitating and making what's probably best described as a rumbling noise, followed by tripping the RCD at higher speeds. I took the brushes out, and there's signs of arcing on one of them, and another was sticking in the holder, but giving them a clean never made any difference.
    The armature isn't that clean looking, however I won't be able to get the motor apart without using heat to get the pulley of, and I suspect the real problem lies with the drive. For it to trip the RCD, there's either got to be an excess build up of carbon inside to give continuity between the brushes and the case, or the SCRs on the drive are starting to breakdown and shorting to GND.
    From past experience with my old lathe, the rumbling noise is consistent with a faulty drive.

    If you want a new replacement DC drive, KB Electronics drives aren't that expensive. For basic speed control, a KBIC would work, or if you want to keep the tacho feedback, a KBMM would be needed. You'd also need to add the extra heatsink for either option to get the rated power capacity.
    Axis Controls are one of the UK distributors, who I'd happily recommend as they've always been helpful when I've used them - http://www.axiscontrols.co.uk/shop/kb-electronics-dc

    I think I'll go and start a new thread about my replacement plans, as I'm umming and arring over the design.

  2. #2
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,957. Received thanks 366 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    bit of a thread hijack sorry.

    so when I got the machine it turned on and worked, but every time I started the spindle it tripped the RCD. I notice straight away the main fuse on the sprint drive card had been bridged, so assuming it was a known problem.

    after many hours of faffing I took the top cover off the sem motor and it was filled with burnt carbon from the brushes. after a really really good clean and hoover, it worked and didn't trip the rcd.

    I also replaced the brushes in the side of the sem motor just for piece of mind.

    a problem since I had the machine is you start the spindle at say 3000rpm and it starts to jump around going up and down, by like 300-400rpm. so sent it away for a £500 refurb and it hasn't fixed the problem just changed the problem. now days when I set the motor to 3200rpm, it will go to that speed then after about 10 seconds jumps to 3800 where it will just sit until turned off. its not a big deal I have live spindle feed back so I can account for it, but it shouldn't be doing it.
    That does sound more like a tacho or drive fault. Have you tried monitoring the tacho voltage, to see what it does when the speed changes?
    If the tacho voltage is increasing with the motor speed, then it's most likely a drive fault, but if it drops first, then there's a tacho problem.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  3. #3
    I haven't no, you could spend more time trying to fix these machines than machining

    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    That does sound more like a tacho or drive fault. Have you tried monitoring the tacho voltage, to see what it does when the speed changes?
    If the tacho voltage is increasing with the motor speed, then it's most likely a drive fault, but if it drops first, then there's a tacho problem.

  4. #4
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Days Ago Has a total post count of 1,651. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    bit of a thread hijack sorry.

    so when I got the machine it turned on and worked, but every time I started the spindle it tripped the RCD. I notice straight away the main fuse on the sprint drive card had been bridged, so assuming it was a known problem.

    after many hours of faffing I took the top cover off the sem motor and it was filled with burnt carbon from the brushes. after a really really good clean and hoover, it worked and didn't trip the rcd.

    I also replaced the brushes in the side of the sem motor just for piece of mind.

    a problem since I had the machine is you start the spindle at say 3000rpm and it starts to jump around going up and down, by like 300-400rpm. so sent it away for a £500 refurb and it hasn't fixed the problem just changed the problem. now days when I set the motor to 3200rpm, it will go to that speed then after about 10 seconds jumps to 3800 where it will just sit until turned off. its not a big deal I have live spindle feed back so I can account for it, but it shouldn't be doing it.
    I had similar issues. Brushes need to be clean and carbon free (And clearly not worn out). I stripped the motor down as far as I could and found that previously someone had put some putty on the wingdings. I Can only assume the motor had basically started to fail and this was a 'plaster' to keep it going.

    I would only get around 30% of full current before the motor would stall. It would then overheat and start smoking from the brush area.

    I triple checked the setup and verified with the supplier of the drive (they were really good) - KEITH SANSBY <[email protected]> . So clearly the motor was the problem. Symptoms also included 'hunting' around high speed and any loading would make it worse.

  5. #5
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,957. Received thanks 366 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    put some putty on the wingdings.
    I've just got to say, that typo made me smile :-)

    Did you get any pics of how the servo fitted?
    Last edited by m_c; 20-03-2017 at 12:19 PM.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  6. #6
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Days Ago Has a total post count of 1,651. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    I've just got to say, that typo made me smile :-)

    Did you get any pics of how the servo fitted?
    LOL, I saw that after too but left it.

    No, but will sort. I do have some older pics, lemme see if I can find them.

  7. #7
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Days Ago Has a total post count of 1,651. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    I've just got to say, that typo made me smile :-)

    Did you get any pics of how the servo fitted?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161120_150601_30990488312_o.jpg 
Views:	366 
Size:	329.4 KB 
ID:	21200Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161126_161054_31113676572_o.jpg 
Views:	350 
Size:	273.6 KB 
ID:	21201Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161127_115220_31156544301_o.jpg 
Views:	339 
Size:	343.7 KB 
ID:	21202

    Difficult to show with existing pics. Ill take a vid on the weekend.

    Tight squeeze, had to remove some material for it to fit and a pic of the bracket used.

  8. #8
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,957. Received thanks 366 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    That's certainly a tight fit.
    Any idea what size flange is on the motor?

    I think a 100mm flange motor would squeeze in, however I couldn't find any with the power I was aiming for, so opted for a 110mm motor, and spacing it up.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  9. #9
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Days Ago Has a total post count of 1,651. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    That's certainly a tight fit.
    Any idea what size flange is on the motor?

    I think a 100mm flange motor would squeeze in, however I couldn't find any with the power I was aiming for, so opted for a 110mm motor, and spacing it up.
    Ill share the sizes tonight. Ive got the original flange drawn up as well as the info on the Panasonic 1.5 KW servo.

  10. #10
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Days Ago Has a total post count of 1,651. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    That's certainly a tight fit.
    Any idea what size flange is on the motor?

    I think a 100mm flange motor would squeeze in, however I couldn't find any with the power I was aiming for, so opted for a 110mm motor, and spacing it up.
    The plate that goes across for the DC motor is 115mm x 110mm (Depth).

    The motor mount bolts are 81mm across from C to C. The recess flange is 100mm.

    This is the motor mount for my Thor machine Y Axis (same motor as used on my Denford for spindle here).

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Flange.jpg 
Views:	326 
Size:	148.5 KB 
ID:	21207

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 10 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 10 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. FOR SALE: Denford Triac CNC PC
    By ricey3 in forum Items For Sale
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-01-2017, 01:39 PM
  2. Help Denford triac p.c.
    By mikeulike in forum Denford Mills
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-06-2015, 03:59 PM
  3. eBay: Denford Triac with Mach3 Conversion
    By large519 in forum Items On eBay UK
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 29-04-2015, 05:34 PM
  4. CONVERSION: Denford Triac Mach3 conversion
    By rnr107 in forum Conversion Build Logs
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 23-10-2014, 02:44 PM
  5. WANTED: Denford Triac
    By edwardsjc in forum Items Wanted
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 20-08-2012, 08:17 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •